Kurehayama and Gohyaku Rakan

I recently visited Gohyaku Rakan for the first time in quite a while. I used to come here almost every year, especially during the autumn foliage season, but like many places close to home, it gradually became one of those spots I stopped visiting. Since my student days, this has been a familiar destination, and even now the area retains the nostalgic atmosphere of “old Toyama,”  thanks to the neighboring Toyama Folkcraft Village.

Gohyaku Rakan is a collection of stone statues cared for by Chokeiji Temple, located halfway up Kurehayama. This modest ridge, stretching north to south through central Toyama and rising only about 120–130 meters, feels more like a friendly, familiar hillside than a true mountain—almost like something out of a storybook. Yet despite its appearance, Kurehayama has played a significant role in shaping Toyama’s history and culture.

One of the most striking features of Kurehayama is the contrast between its gentle western slope and its steep eastern face. This natural terrain became an important boundary for the Toyama Castle town. During the late medieval and Edo periods, Toyama Castle stood in a naturally advantageous defensive position—protected by the Jinzu River to the east and the rising ridge of Kurehayama to the west. This landscape made attacks from the west difficult, as armies would have had to climb steep slopes before approaching the castle. Historical maps from the Edo period depict Kurehayama prominently, reflecting its recognition as a natural “shield” behind the castle.

Although the mountain itself was not a fortress, the highest point of the ridge—Shiroyama—was home to Shirotori Castle, a mountaintop stronghold used during the Sengoku period. During the 1585 campaign against Sassa Narimasa, Maeda Toshiie positioned his forces on Kurehayama, and Toyotomi Hideyoshi is said to have set his main camp at Shirotori Castle. Kurehayama thus appears at several key moments in Toyama’s military history.

Kurehayama also forms a cultural and climatic divide within Toyama. Locals often remark how weather differs dramatically across the ridge—rain on the west side while the east remains sunny, or significantly different snowfall levels. This natural division influenced local life and culture:

• the western side developed rural and agricultural traditions,

• while the eastern side became the urban center around Toyama Castle.

Even today, Toyama residents use the terms “Gōtō” (East of Kureha) and “Gōsei” (West of Kureha) to describe cultural regions within the prefecture—reflecting a boundary shaped more by geography than by division.

Historically, Kurehayama was also a sacred mountain. Chokeiji and Anyoji temples were established along the ridge, and Gohyaku Rakan—carved through donations from local residents—stands as a testament to the prayers and hopes of the community. The ridge also offers one of the finest views of the Tateyama Mountain Range, making it both a spiritual and visual landmark deeply tied to Toyama’s identity.

Today, Kurehayama is cherished as a peaceful landscape: cherry blossoms blanket the hills in spring, maples turn the slopes red in autumn, and vast pear orchards spread across the gentle ridges. Once a site of worship and, at times, a strategic point in turbulent eras, the mountain now blends quietly into daily life—continuing to shape the cultural landscape of Toyama.