A Nostalgic Trip to Otaru and Yoichi

— Coastal Train Ride, Retro Diesel Cars, and the Birthplace of Nikka Whisky —

It has been four to five years since my last trip to Otaru and Yoichi. Over the years, I have visited Otaru about five times and Yoichi three times, yet each visit brings back a sense of nostalgia. Yoichi became widely known through the NHK drama Massan, which portrayed the life of Masataka Taketsuru—founder of Nikka Whisky—and his Scottish wife Rita, who devoted their lives to building Japanese whisky in this northern land.

While Otaru is famous nationwide, Yoichi remains lesser-known outside Hokkaido, though it is a place full of quiet charm.

From Sapporo to Otaru: A Beautiful Coastal Ride

Trains on the JR Hakodate Line run roughly every 30 minutes, and the rapid service takes about 30–40 minutes from Sapporo to Otaru. It feels almost like a commuter route, yet the scenery is anything but ordinary.

Soon after leaving Sapporo, the view opens up to the Sea of Japan. The train runs along the coastline, offering sweeping ocean views that make the short trip surprisingly memorable.

At Otaru Station, nostalgic lamps greet visitors (Photo 1). The retro atmosphere instantly sets the tone for the journey ahead.

I also came across something unexpected—Georgia’s old-style “long can” coffee. These sweet, classic cans have almost disappeared in recent years, so finding one brought back warm memories.

From Otaru to Yoichi: Riding the Kiha 40 Diesel Car

The section from Otaru to Yoichi is non-electrified, meaning diesel cars run this route. On this visit, I boarded the Kiha 40-820, beloved among railway enthusiasts.

The moment the engine starts, the deep rumble and distinctive diesel aroma fill the air. The ceiling fans, instead of modern air-conditioning, evoke the nostalgic charm of the Showa era.

The ride takes about 30 minutes—roughly the same as Sapporo to Otaru—despite being a much shorter distance. The gentle swaying of the train somehow enhances the retro atmosphere.

Arriving in Yoichi: A Town with Quiet Charm

After crossing the footbridge and stepping out of the station, Yoichi immediately feels different from tourist-heavy Otaru.

It is calmer, slower, and carries the warmth of old Hokkaido.

Just across from the station stands the Nikka Whisky Yoichi Distillery, surrounded by weathered brick walls. The architecture exudes a sense of history, reminiscent of early 20th-century Japan.

Exploring the Nikka Whisky Distillery

The distillery offers guided tours with reservations, but even without one, visitors can freely walk around the grounds. I chose the latter, following the recommended path at a relaxed pace.

Highlights include:

• Traditional pot stills and historic distillation equipment

• The reconstructed home of Taketsuru and Rita　

• The museum displaying Japan’s first Nikka Whisky from 1940

The 80-year-old whisky had noticeably lowered in volume and glowed with a deep amber color. Imagining its value is beyond comprehension.

At the end of the visit, I enjoyed a tasting of whisky and apple juice—now available only for tour participants. The whisky tasted remarkably fresh, perhaps influenced by the distillery atmosphere itself.

Looking Back: Yoichi, a Town Worth Revisiting

After finishing the tour, I retraced my steps back to the entrance, feeling pleasantly warm from the tasting. Despite being only 30 minutes from Otaru, Yoichi has a distinctly peaceful character that makes wandering around truly enjoyable.

This time I only visited the distillery, but the area also offers orchards, coastal walks, and small local shops. Next time, I hope to spend an entire day exploring more of what Yoichi has to offer.

If you are planning a trip to Otaru, I highly recommend adding Yoichi to your itinerary—or even making it a destination of its own.