Kiyomian Soba on Seseragi Kaido

Fresh Green Scenery, a Dog-Friendly Terrace, and Seasonal Mountain Tempura

During Golden Week, I visited Kiyomian, a soba restaurant located along the scenic Seseragi Kaido in Kiyomi, Takayama City, Gifu Prefecture.

Kiyomian is about a 30-minute drive from the Hida-Kiyomi Interchange near Takayama. From Toyama City, it takes roughly two hours by car using the Hokuriku Expressway. It is not a very short trip, but the drive itself is part of the pleasure, especially in the season of fresh green leaves.

On this day, the rain from the previous day had completely cleared, leaving a bright, blue May sky. The mountains were covered with layers of early summer green: deep green conifers, pale new leaves, and soft yellow-green tones. The temperature was mild, and the air felt fresh and clean.

A Very Popular Soba Restaurant During Golden Week

Because we left Toyama a little late, we arrived at Kiyomian at around 1 p.m.

As expected during Golden Week, many people were already waiting. Shortly after we arrived, the sign saying “closed for today” was put out. We had made it just in time.

Kiyomian is a popular restaurant, and on weekends or holidays, it is better to arrive early. Since the restaurant may close once the soba has sold out, planning to arrive before the peak lunch hour is strongly recommended, especially if you are coming from far away.

Waiting Surrounded by Fresh Green Nature

We waited for about one hour before our turn came.

Fortunately, the waiting time was not stressful. The restaurant has a spacious garden, surrounded by beautiful mountains. There was shade, a gentle breeze, and plenty of fresh green scenery to enjoy. Waiting outside with our dog became a pleasant part of the experience.

As seen in the photographs, the mountains were filled with the colors of late spring and early summer. The contrast between the vivid green leaves and the clear blue sky was especially beautiful. It was the kind of seasonal landscape that can only be felt in a quiet mountain village.

Dog-Friendly Terrace Seating

One of the reasons we enjoy visiting Kiyomian is that dogs are allowed at the outdoor terrace seats.

On this day, we saw several other groups with dogs as well. Dogs cannot enter the indoor dining area, but the terrace seats are surrounded by the garden and mountain scenery. In this season, sitting outside may actually be the best way to enjoy the meal.

For those visiting with a dog, it is best to bring a leash, water, waste bags, and some protection from the sun. Around Golden Week, the weather is often comfortable, but the sunlight can still be strong. Since the waiting time may be long, it is important to watch your dog’s condition and avoid overexertion.

The Highlight: Tenzaru Soba

The specialty of Kiyomian is undoubtedly tenzaru soba, cold soba noodles served with tempura.

The tempura is mainly made from seasonal wild vegetables, reportedly gathered near the restaurant. Rather than being a flashy dish centered on shrimp or meat, it is a plate that lets you taste the blessings of the surrounding mountains.

The wild vegetable tempura was truly excellent.

The batter was light, and the flavor of the mountain vegetables remained clear. Some had a gentle bitterness, which matched beautifully with the fresh spring atmosphere. Eating this dish in the mountains made it feel even more special. It was not just a tourist meal, but a way of tasting the season itself.

Stone-Milled Soba with Excellent Texture

The soba noodles are stone-milled and have a firm, satisfying texture.

The aroma of buckwheat rises gently as you eat, and the flavor becomes richer with each bite. The noodles are not too thin or weak; they have a pleasant firmness and a clean finish. I prefer to dip them only lightly into the sauce so that the natural flavor of the soba remains.

I have been visiting Kiyomian almost every year for more than ten years, especially during this season. Fresh green leaves, wild vegetable tempura, soba, and the drive along Seseragi Kaido have become a small annual tradition for me.

Driving Back Along Seseragi Kaido

After lunch, we enjoyed the drive back along Seseragi Kaido.

This road is famous for its beautiful natural scenery. In spring, the mountains are covered with fresh green leaves; in summer, the green becomes deeper; and in autumn, the area is known for its colorful foliage. Around Golden Week, the mixture of young leaves creates a beautiful pattern across the mountainside.

If time allows, Okura Falls is also worth considering as a nearby stop. This time, however, we decided not to visit because we were concerned about bears. When traveling in mountain areas, it is always important to check local conditions and be cautious about wildlife.

Practical Tips for Visiting Kiyomian

If you plan to visit Kiyomian on a weekend or during a holiday period, arriving early is highly recommended. The restaurant is popular, and it may close once the soba sells out.

For visitors with dogs, the outdoor terrace seats are the option to use. Since terrace seating depends on the weather, it is wise to prepare for sunlight, temperature changes, or rain. Bringing water for your dog and planning for possible waiting time will make the visit more comfortable.

Seseragi Kaido is a beautiful drive, but it is also a mountain road. During popular seasons such as spring and autumn, traffic may increase, and drivers should allow enough time for a relaxed trip.

Conclusion

A clear May sky, fresh green mountains, a spacious garden, time spent with our dog, and a plate of stone-milled soba with wild vegetable tempura.

Kiyomian is more than just a place to eat soba. It is a place where you can enjoy the nature and season of Seseragi Kaido.

Although it takes about two hours from Toyama City, the scenery, the atmosphere, and the food make the drive worthwhile. For me, this visit has become one of the pleasures of early summer.

This year again, I was grateful to enjoy both the taste and the scenery of this beautiful season.